La Vie à Lyon

Living, learning and loving in Lyon !

Archive for the tag “Croix-Rousse”

The other hill in Lyon

Sim had his knee operation on Monday morning. What a way to start the week! He was in the Croix-Rousse hospital, which is in la Croix-Rousse (funnily enough…) and the opposite end of the city to Oullins.


La Croix-Rousse is the other hill in Lyon – ‘the hill that works’ – and has a fascinating history. It was home to the canuts, the Lyonnais silk workers, in the 1800s and the stage of  their uprisings during the Industrial Revolution. The architecture of la Croix-Rousse is known for its high ceilings – to accommodate looms, its many windows – to ensure good air flow and its traboules – covered passageways to transport silky wares out of the way of inclement weather.

A traboule, complete with silk-themed light show, from La Fête des Lumières.

Monsieur Joseph Marie Jacquard, inventor of the Jacquard loom.

Nowadays, la Croix-Rousse is home to students, artists and bo-bos – the ‘bourgeois bohemians.’ It’s very Fitzroy. The canut history is obvious though, with everything from streets to pharmacies named after them. There’s even an awesome cheese called ‘Cervelle de Canut,’ which translates to canut brains. Mmmm…!

Canut brains – with chives!

Fourvière from la Croix-Rousse.

Street art. Look at that hill!

I know I’ve mentioned hills a few times, but just to reinforce – the first time I took the metro to la Croix-Rousse, I slid off my seat…it’s steep!


PS. Some of you may have received the draft of this post – I zigged when I should’ve zagged, and published prematurely!

Post Navigation